Or, you can just roll a piece of masking tape and place it on the hanger. Then hold your board up to the mirror and press it firmly so the tape will stick to the board. When you bring the board back down, the tape will be stuck to it and mark the location where you need to chisel. To chisel, I just marked out a square with the chisel. It goes pretty fast.
Attach them firmly, then remove the backing of the tape. Now you can just set your boards up gently and make minor adjustments. Once you are fully satisfied by the final location, press them firmly against the mirror.
This was secure enough to satisfy me. As long as nobody pulls on them hard they should stay up for a long time. We are very happy with the results. We hope to hear from you. We still have more decor projects to complete for this bathroom that we will share as we get to them…you know that to-do list…. You can get our newsletter here to get our new content.
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And we could butt the molding up to it. Or run the molding all the way around and just forty-five it. Allen Lyle: All right. Danny Lipford: To get just the right shade of stain, Allen is mixing a chestnut color with an ebony. Although this will complement the faucet on the vanity, it will add contrast to the wall, which is primarily lighter colors. Danny Lipford: By using the corner blocks, Allen and John Paul will be able to make simple, square cuts on the molding so it fits between them.
A two-part epoxy applied to the back of each piece will hold it in place. But wherever they can, they added a finish nail or two to secure them while the epoxy dries. After a little colored putty to mask the nail holes, the work is done. Allen Lyle: I like the choice of the color that you did there.
If you want to paint the wood, pre-primed paint-grade or finger joint trim saves time and money. The manner in which you lay out the frame and join the pieces together has just as large an impact on the finished look as the style of molding you choose. For a picture-frame effect, miter the wood trim ends with a saw and miter box so they join at the four corners of the mirror. Bypass the miter box and cut the trim to fit the height and width of the mirror exactly.
Then, add rosettes to the four corners to join the four trim pieces together, creating a frame. Achieve a more streamlined, modern look by cutting the trim so that the top and bottom extend the width of the mirror plus the width of the trim running down either side.
This works best with flat molding with no decorative millwork. Finish the wood trim with paint or stain before you frame the mirror. This eliminates the need to tape off the mirror or surrounding area and gives you the chance to finish the back of the trim.
By finishing the trim on all sides, you prevent any unsightly bare wood from showing. Wood stain works on hardwood trim, while paint is ideal for pre-primed products.
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